One of the most northerly of the Greek islands, Thassos escapes the wild blast of the meltemi
wind in July and August. The flip side is hot and sticky weather at the height of the holiday
season when insects like wasps can be a problem. But the island has some impressive
beaches with the best in the south and east. While some, like Limenaria are unmemorable,
others like Paradiso and Alyki are just breathtaking. There are also delightful coves waiting
for those prepared to wander off the beaten track. As the package firms move in however,
the atmosphere moves out, and holiday beaches like Makryammos and Skala Potamia
now are bending to downmarket demands. With no airport, visitor numbers tend to be
lower so the island has a good few years left. Enjoy it while you can. THASSOS TOWN,
known locally as LIMENAS or LIMIS is the island's main town, though not its main port
which lies to the east in the dire resort of Ormos Prinou. Limenas has three faces, the good,
the bad and the ugly. Visiting tourists stream off the ferry from mainland Karamouti to
the ugliest part - the new harbour. This a vast swathe of concrete and dirt is often lined
with lorries bearing the island's main export product of marble as they queue up for the
ferry. A few bars and hotels dot the harbour alongside the sort of tavernas that make
your heart sink. Sickly illuminated menus in pale yellow neon make dishes look like
they once had a bit part in The Exorcist. Most meals at this end of town are served up with
greasy chips, canned vegetables and the numbing thump of disco music from neighbouring
bars. The bad part is the main town itself which is fast tarting itself up for the growing
tourist population. More cafes and trinket shops spring up each year as locals try to cash in
on the tourist bonanza. Arriving ferries regularly spout out cars, coaches and the huge marble
carrying lorries, turning the town's short and narrow main street into a cauldron of fumes
and noise. The good side of Limenas is found in the old and pretty fishing harbour which,
despite being swamped by tavernas and cafes, manages to retain a warm, rustic atmosphere.
Brightly painted fishing boats bob against the harbour wall while strolling tourists wind their
way around a quayside littered with ropes and fishing nets. Most tavernas at this end of town
serve decent food in generous proportions. The town also boasts ruins that pop up now
and then among shops and houses. Those not fenced off with rusty chain link fencing have
almost disappeared and town centre remains are now little more than a children's
playground. The main archaeological sites are at the Agora next to the newly built
archaeological museum where there are Roman foundations of shops and houses; the
amphitheatre above the town which still hosts performances during the summer season
and has fabulous views over the bay; and further along the track, well restored city
walls and the relatively substantial remains of the Acropolis and temples to Apollo and
Athena. The beach was tarted up with lorry loads of sand in 1996. It's pleasant enough for
an artificial beach with shallow waters ideal for children. Tamarisk trees line the road which
runs behind and serves a row of pleasant tavernas. In the early evening to see dog packs
roam the shoreline begging for scraps when they're not copulating and defecating in the
sand. On Thursdays hundreds of schoolchildren are ferried over from mainland Kavala on
educational trips to the town's archaeological ruins - to the open annoyance of the locals.
Sunbathers can find the beach quickly swamped by overexcited and very noisy children..